With modern maps, GPS and aerial photography, we like to think we know the hills better than anyone. But open an Ordnance Survey map of any mountain in the Scottish Highlands and there, in plain sight, is evidence that those who roamed these hills long before us knew them intimately – perhaps more than we ever will.

Music
Moladh Beinn Dóbhrain (In praise of Ben Dorain), trad tune; Tha Sìor Choineadh Am Beinn Dóbhrain (There Is A Constant Wailing in Ben Dorain), trad tune; Cead deireannach nam beann (Last Farewell to the Mountains), trad tune with words by Duncan Ban MacIntyre; Auch Jig, by Siobhan Anderson. All performed by Siobhan Anderson.
Credits
Thanks to Anna MacQuarrie, Siobhan Anderson, Paul Fraser for reading the English translation and Huw Williams for editing help. Special thanks to our sponsor, Alpkit.
Further reading
If you’re interested in digging a bit deeper into this topic, Anna and I both recommend the excellent Reading the Gaelic Landscape, by John Murray.